Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/60G-001 Flyback Chronograph White Gold Blue-Gray Dial

One trend that has asserted itself at Patek Philippe this year is denim, or rather, the colour of blue jeans, appearing on the dials and straps of several novelties, like the Worldtime with Date and Aquanaut Travel Time. A much sought-after model, the Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 5980, was discontinued earlier this year. Much to the delight of collectors, Patek introduces a white gold version of the Nautilus Chronograph 5980G with a casual denim-textured strap and a matching denim-coloured dial.

Launched in 1976, the Nautilus is part of the famous holy trinity of luxury sports watches. In 2006, coinciding with the 30th anniversary of Gerald Genta’s winning design for Patek, the Nautilus was fitted with an in-house chronograph complication (reference 5980/1A).

 As a demonstration of Patek’s ability to make complications user-friendly, legible and compact, the Nautilus Chronograph has always been characterised by its single sub-dial with concentric scales – 60-minute and 12-hour – for the chronograph indications at 6 o’clock

The 2024 Nautilus 5980G has a lovely opaline blue-grey dial that works particularly well with the white gold case. The horizontal embossed pattern on the dial is signature Nautilus, and the monocounter at 6 o’clock matches the dial colour and is snailed with white markings for the elapsed chronograph times. The rounded baton-style hands are treated with white luminescent material. There is a framed date window at 3 o’clock, a white precision minutes/seconds track on the periphery, and the applied white gold hour markers are treated with white luminescent treatment for increased legibility.

Measuring 40.5mm across and 12.2 mm thick, the 30m water-resistant white gold case displays a mix of vertical satin-brushed and polished finishings, highlighting its busy, asymmetric geometry. The signature ears, the octagonal bezel and the chronograph pushers are all consolidated features of the chronograph, but the fact that it isn’t fitted with an integrated bracelet means that the lug attachments add an extra geometrical feature. The pusher at 2 o’clock starts and stops the chronograph, while the one at 4 o’clock activates the flyback function.

The Nautilus Chronograph is powered by the calibre CH 28-520 C/522, an in-house integrated automatic flyback chronograph movement with a 21k gold central rotor, a Breguet balance spring, a Gryomax balance that beats at 4Hz, and a power reserve between 45 and 55 hours.

Perhaps the most striking novelty is the casual, denim-patterned calfskin strap with its white gold Nautilus fold-over clasp.